The Three Sides of Istanbul

On this visit I wanted to see more of Istanbul, more than just Sultanahmet, so I decided to go peninsula hopping, by tram, commuter train, ferry, and bus. Going from historical Faith, to Kadiköy on the Asian side, and Besiktas, Pera, and Galata in what is referred to as the modern part of the city. It became quite an adventure – slightly exhausting, but doable.

When I told the owner of the hotel I stayed at, my plans for the day, that I was gonna head over to Kadıköy in Anatolia, the Asian side, her immediate response was: That’s where I live. There’s nothing to see over there (for tourists). My answer: Just the way I like it! I guess in a way she was right. This is an area where people are living their lives. Nothing flashy. A waterfront, some narrow, cobblestoned streets, otherwise a generic urban centre. This is if you’d like to get away from the hoards of tourists, and people in general, and enjoy local vibes. Also probably nicer in better weather.

Next up was the area north of the Golden Horn. Modern Istanbul. Initially it felt a lot like Kadiköy, when I arrived in Beşiktaş. Not there for long though, just transiting. When I reached Taksim Square, the atmosphere definitely changed, at least when I got to the 1.4 km long pedestrian İstiklal Avenue in Pera. This is shopping street number one, overflowing with people, however less than in Sultanahmet… For those not into browsing stores, it didn’t become interesting until I reached Galata and the winding, narrow streets, descending towards the waterfront.

After visiting the other two sides of Istanbul, I’ve concluded that no matter how congested historical Faith is, it is still where I like to base myself. Sultanahmet with the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the Basilica Cistern is overwhelming, packed with tourists, but if you step outside the area, you can find a nice and quiet neighbourhood; have a more local experience, making your way through the street maze and hoards of people out doing errands, down towards the Golden Horn; enjoy a slightly less busy waterfront; or climb halfway back up the hill and find a rooftop restaurant with the city’s best view.

One, or five, places I unfortunately didn’t add to my plans, were the Princes’ Islands. Five small islands just off the Marmara Sea coast. Such a bummer I didn’t come across them before it was too late.

Travelling between the different parts of Istanbul, was both easy and a challenge.

• Riding the tram from Sultanahmet Square to the Faith waterfront – not a problem. Used my credit card to tap on. No need to tap off on trams.
• Next leg was on the Marmaray commuter rail from Sirkeci to Kadiköy. It involves one transfer. Also not an issue. However unbeknownst to me, this is where trouble started. I had agreed with the hotel host that getting an Istanbulkart wouldn’t be necessary, as I was leaving the day after, didn’t know how much money I would need, and I could use my credit card to tap on and off – yes, you need to tap off when exiting the Marmaray. Unfortunately, she was wrong. You can not use your credit card. You need an Istanbulkart. When I tried to enter with my credit card, I was denied. Spotted two women dressed in black with ID cards and a man in uniform. Asked for help. Should never have done that. Turned out they were scammers, at least the two women. I ended up getting an Istanbulkart with less money than I had put on it. Though enough for me to get where I was going, without noticing something was wrong. In addition to switching the card I bought, for a card the scammer already had in her hands, I later saw that my credit card had been charged more than what the card itself cost and the top-up money put on it. The machine is easy to use, so don’t accept any help.
• I travelled from Kadiköy to Besiktas on the ferry. There’s lots of ferries, so make sure you get on the correct one. Seating both inside and outside. Tap on, no need to tap off. A 30 minute ride, crossing the Bosphorus Strait. A bit windy and chilly, but nice to be out on the water. Maybe crisscrossing the Bosporus and the Golden Horn on the public ferries, would be a cheaper alternative to going on a cruise / tour.
• I took the bus from Besiktas to Taksim Square. Finding my way from the ferry dock to the bus stop was easy. Finding the correct bus was not. It is a huuuuge “bus stop”. Luckily I approached the wrong bus at the same time as a local, young man, who kindly tracked down the correct bus for me. He said he had moved into the area a couple of weeks ago, but still hadn’t figured out the buses… Tap on, no tap off.
• Getting from Pera to Sultanahmet proved not to be of the easy kind. Walking down İstiklal Avenue from Taksim Square, the only public transportation option I spotted, was the red T2 Taksim-Tünel Nostalgia Tramway, which runs the whole avenue (only). Every time it passed me by, it was full. There is a metro stop (Sishane) at the end of the avenue, where the decent towards the waterfront starts. It will take you across the Golden Horn, but it’ll be a long walk, or transfer to bus / tram, to reach Sultanahment Square. I ended up at a super busy tram stop at Galata Bridge / Karaköy. The tram left every two minutes, so it didn’t take long before I was on my way home.

Website: goturkiye.com/istanbul

Faith

Sultanahmet

Waterfront – Eminönü / Sirkeci

The Asian side / Kadiköy

Ferry from Kadiköy to Beşiktaş

Galata, Pera and beyond

Besiktas

Taksim Square / İstiklal Avenue / Galata

Princes’ Islands