Some places I’ve been to, have been heaven on Earth. This might be hell on Earth. Had only heard good things about the Maltese island of Comino, and the Blue Lagoon, but that must have been experiences from another time, because no one who has visited these days can have much good to say. Before coming I had read, there are nowhere to get anything to eat, there is a hotel, but is is closed during off-season. Sounds kinda deserted, right? Well… The short walkway up from the jetty to the top of island, is packed with trucks selling drinks, mostly alcoholic ones, and fast food, snacks, and fruit… – the cup of pineapple I got was probably the best about the whole experience 😀 Add to that hoards of people in rented deckchairs and parasols. More or less sitting on top of each other. Squeezed in onto the same walkway. Anchored up boats, from tiny ones to smaller ships, and blasting music. Welcome to the Blue Lagoon. The water is definitely blue, though 😀
Needing to leave the mayhem, I decided to continue on the walkway, that turned into a dirt road at the top of the hill, and soon I was pretty much all alone. Few people venture outside the Blue Lagoon. I saw a sign for Santa Maria Bay, and I’ve later realised there is another road leading to Saint Niklaw Bay, which is where the hotel is located. I never made it that far, as I came ill-prepared. Advice: bring suitable footwear as you will feel the gravel through thin soled shoes, and pack light – the sun shining from above will take its toll, and there are no shade to be found. Not seeing anything of interest, I re-routed and went off-road in the direction of St. Mary’s Tower. There are some trails crisscrossing the island, but you can easily find your own way. It was a lot more interesting following the shoreline, otherwise it is mostly flat, dry landscape. Spotted some nice bays, with anchored up sailboats, and kids jumping off cliffs. It appeared the watchtower was further away than what it looked like, so aborted that mission. I think the road will take you there too. After enjoying my packed lunch in a calmer and nicer atmosphere, I walked back, and got on the next ferry out.
I overheard a couple ask at one of the trucks how many visitors they have a day, and he said 8-10.000 during peak season. They also said they didn’t understand why people stayed at the Blue Lagoon, when Santa Maria Bay had been empty. In other words, that’s where you should head, if you decide to visit Comino. The ferry also made a stop at the caves on the way out. Honestly nothing exciting.
I travelled to Comino on Comino Ferries. They depart from Cirkewwa, which is the same place as the Gozo Channel Line leaves from. It is a harbour area of decent size, but the ticket booth is the first thing on your right as you enter the premises. The ferry (small boat) departs every 30 minutes, and returns from Comino every hour. Operates daily. 13 euros (2022) for a round trip. Usually go via the caves. If you miss one departure, they have a cafe/kiosk with tables and chairs, and homemade Maltese coconut cake 🙂 , so just wait for the next. There are several operators that run the route, but I was happy with this one.
Reached Cirkewwa on a public bus from Sliema, but got off too early. Saw a sign for Comino Ferries pointing right, while the bus turned left, so thought I would end up at the wrong place. When I mentioned it, they said they depart from Marfa as well. Stay put on the bus until you reach the final destination 🙂 Going back the bus terminal was a short walk away.
More on Malta.
Blue Lagoon
The rest of Comino
The caves
On the ferry
