Let’s just get it out of the way – go to Sark! You can not visit Guernsey without making a stop on this island! Can’t believe I was actually considering skipping it. You might even want to spend a night. It is the world’s first dark sky island, meaning the night sky is exceptionally clear and black, and free from light pollution, making it perfect for stargazing, and possibly seeing the Milky Way. Due to a tight schedule, I had to make my visit a day trip only. But I still had a great time!
After being dropped off by the Harbour Hill Bus (read more below), a short, easy, slightly uphill walk, and you find yourself at the start of the main street. Along here are most of the island’s few shops, some with very adorable store fronts. I popped by the local jeweller, Sark Silver Studio, and picked up a souvenir, to sit on my finger 🙂 The Avenue soon ends, and you are faced with deciding which turn to make. You can stay in the village, or you can venture through, and out on the other side. The village is very small, made up of a few streets only, so spending all your time here, is going to make for a very long day. On the other hand, the island is too big to cover it all in a day. On foot, or by renting a bike, or joining a horse and carriage ride. Because there are no cars 😀 Unless you count out the tractors that pass you by now and again. In other words, you need to pick and choose how to spend your 8 hours. The tourist information office might spread some light, like you sadly can not approach the beautiful lighthouse you spot upon arriving at the island 🙁
As my main goal on Sark, was La Coupee, a winding, narrow causeway connecting Big Sark and Little Sark, I headed south first. In solitude, more or less. I met 4 people 😀 Only thing keeping me company was the wind blowing through the trees, making me think there was a car coming, which there wasn’t 😀 I passed through tree tunnels, always have love for them, and just had to stop by the island’s chocolate factory. Note, Caragh Chocolate was the only place to refresh after leaving the village – La Sablonnerie restaurant and tea garden on Little Sark had closed for the winter. And then, 20 minutes after leaving the Avenue, I reached the magnificent La Coupee. A 100 meter long isthmus, with an 80 meter tall and 3 meter wide ridge. Steep hillsides on either side. Sandy beach at the bottom. Splendid! Spotted a trail going down to the beach. If safe, definitely something to try. Just remember the tide.
So here is an issue, which made me not continue beyond La Coupee. That, and the fact that I had limited time. The road is lined with hedges, which you can not look over. If you want to see the shoreline, you will have to get off the road, and hike trails, which makes seeing the whole island time-consuming. I found two spots from where you can see the shoreline “hassle-free”, at the La Coupee, and just as you’ve passed the chocolate factory, there are a couple of clearings with benches for enjoying the shore, from afar.
When I got back to the village, I had time to spend, so I decided to go for Window in the Rock. It is more or less in the village, or at least a lot closer. After a little back and forth, I found the bike park, and footpath going down, at times through a bit dense woods. A few minutes later you spot the window in the rock, literally. When you walk through you get a nice view of Les Autlets, and a 250 feet (76 m) drop, no rails, so be careful.
On my way back towards the Avenue, I had lunch at Hathaway’s at La Seigneurie House and Gardens, came across the local dairy, and loved the fresh local eggs honesty stall. Had the stars aligned, I would have been able to witness sheep racing, and enjoy an evening of quingo (quiz + bingo) as well. Just love this place!
Since I visited the Channel Islands off season, getting to Sark, from St. Peter Port on Guernsey Island, was not a trip with plenty of options to choose from. Luckily Isle of Sark Shipping Company runs passenger, and cargo, ferries all year round, unless there are cancellations due to bad weather, like the day before I was travelling. The ride was 35 minutes only, but on other vessels 50 minutes. Booking my ticket online was a breeze. Just remember to pick up the ticket at the ticket office at least 25 minutes before sailing. You will not be able to board with the booking confirmation e-mail. The ticket office is at the White Rock, at the harbour. Return ticket was 29.5 pounds. You need to be at the dock 15 minutes before departure. The ferry is not very big, and nothing fancy.
After docking at Maseline Harbour on Sark, you pass though a small pedestrian tunnel, to find the Harbour Hill Bus waiting to take you up the hill. Two of them in fact. By bus they mean a tractor dragging a wagon. Ticket is 1.5 pounds one way. Alternatively you can walk up. Follow a woodland trail or the road. Whichever you go for, you end up at the start of the village main street. When leaving the island the last bus departs from the same spot (at the Bel Air Inn) 30 minutes before the sailing. Since I had time to kill, I decided to walk down. Took a little more than 5 minutes. I also got to have a peak at the adjacent Creux Harbour, marked “one of the smallest working harbours in the world”. Not much action on this day, but the best place to get shelter from the wind. I could have opted for the cafe, but outside in the sunshine, much better 🙂
Website: sark.co.uk
The ferry
The harbour
The Harbour Hill Bus
The village
Outside the village
La Coupee
Window in the Rock
