Hiking is one of the main reasons for many to come to Madeira, Portugal. The routes available vary from long, more demanding ones to easy peasy. I am not the most eager hiker, I like short hikes, with great rewards, a.k.a. views 😀 As a result I chose to do the 1.5 km (one way) levada walk in Ribeiro Frio. The views looked great, online. The unpredictable factor, the weather, was not on my side this time around 🙁
You can start the hike from two spots in Ribeiro Frio. I assume most visitors get off the bus at the first stop, find the sign post saying PR11 Balcoes, and head out. Note there are several trails and signs, so make sure you pick the correct one. The PR11 sign was also a bit “hidden”, meaning you have to walk down the road a little, and then you’ll spot it on your left side. Alternative jump-off point is the second bus stop in town. Trail starts right next to Faisca Bar. This is a lot closer to the Balcoes viewpoint. Great if you don’t want to walk through the laurel forest, just come for the views.
As I was a bit unsure where to get off the bus, I did as most folks, and got off at the first stop. After a little back and forth, I spotted the sign post. From there I followed the winding water channel mountain trail through the laurisilva. On the way I passed a charming, little bridge, a cafe with tables and chairs, got a vista of Ribeiro Frio and surroundings, but mostly it was just the muddy trail, the trees and I, and not as dense forest as I thought it was going to be. After a fairly short hike, I reached the viewing platform, a small one, offering a, cloudy, view. Bummer! After hanging around for a while, looking to see if the fog would lift, I gave up. On the way back I realised there was an intersection at which I could turn left, and end up at the second bus stop. Shortly after I found myself down by the road, at Faisca Bar, with almond cake topped with ice cream, and a hot cuppa – bliss! Defrosted, I decided to follow the road back up to where I got dropped off, about a 10 min walk slightly uphill.
Ribeiro Frio is a tiny village. Two small clusters of buildings about 500 meters apart. At the first bus stop there is a souvenir shop, a cafe/bar serving homemade poncha, and a restaurant/cafe combo with a church and river/waterfall set-up. Up the road you’ll find a rainbow trout nursery, which appeared closed. At the second bus stop things was even more quiet. I spotted what looked to be a hotel, and a couple of eateries.
This day trip is easily done by local bus – bus no. 56, heading for Santana. The bus leaves from a stop in the old town of Funchal, near the cable car station. It’s a square with several buses lined up, like a bus terminal. As the bus quickly gets full, be early, and get in line. You can also get on at stops other places in town. You pay when you board. It is about a 50 min ride, and it takes you up the mountains, on narrow, winding roads, at full speed. Great views of Funchal and area, and it made a stop at Monte as well. Thanks to Hit the Road Madeira for letting me know it’s possible to do this independently!
You’ll find information on the different trails at Visit Madeira. This hike is ok for those who just want a taste of it. If you’re an avid hiker, find something else. I still imagine the views are good, on a good day.
Levada walk
Ribeiro Frio
On the local bus
