One of the reasons for staying in Izmir, Turkey, was its proximity to Cesme. I went on a beach vacation to this village back in the ’90s, and wanted to re-visit. This time it became a very short day trip only, for (transportation) reasons you can read about below. However, it was enough to cover the village itself, but not the rest of the area, like Alacati and the beach. I had read before coming, that the locals, vacation home owners, love this time of year, October, as the tourists have left, creating a relaxed atmosphere. There were some tourists around, but the vibe was definitely chill. Restaurants and shops were still open.
I wouldn’t say it’s many sights in town, but the old fort is definitely a dominating feature, literally. It’s huge. I remember getting a better overview from out on the sea. Now it is a museum. Last time we went to a restaurant located there. I like the amphi seating setup by the waterfront promenade, which is lined with docked tour boats. Must provide the village’s best view. There’s also a promenade at the marina, with a more upscale feel to the shops and eateries. A reflection on Çeşme being popular with the Turkish rich and famous? I just spent my time strolling the streets, from the roundabout / square next to the courthouse, along the pedestrian main street, Atatürk Boulevard, which terminates at the town hall square, in the heart of town. Most things were familiar, but to no surprise the place has expanded in 30 years 🙂
The August, many, many years ago, we went to the beach at Ilica. I do not recall it being anything out of the ordinary, but I read thermal spring water exits here, making the waters warmer than elsewhere. We also went on a boat tour, visiting Donkey Island, and the Blue Lagoon.
Travelling from Izmir to Cesme turned out to be quite the undertaking, for me. Going back was easy peasy. The receptionist at the hotel recommended going with the Cesme Seyahat bus company, as that would mean no transfers. He kindly made me easy to understand travel directions (see end of post). After checking the bus company’s website, I, and he, became unsure whether or not the bus would stop at Fahrettin Altay in Izmir, as it didn’t specifically say so. He said they usually do. And they do. So if you want to take the easy way out, follow the his directions below.
However, in my case, he said, to be on the safe side, take bus #302, to Otogar Konak (Izmir bus station), which is the departure point of Cesme Seyahat. From Çankaya bus stop, on Fevzi Pasa Blv in Konak, it is suppose to take 36 minutes, with the bus departing approx. every 20 minutes, it looks like. To pay, you tap your credit card, when you board. With the amount of traffic, the bus didn’t arrive on time, neither at Cankaya, nor at the bus terminal, outside the city centre. At the bus station we were dropped off at a bus stop outside the terminal area itself. It looked like a parking lot for buses. I’m thinking this might be where the local buses arrive and depart, in contrast to the long distance buses. I had seen photos of the bus station online, so I knew it was going to be daunting – it is huge! – but it was a lot more overwhelming than I expected. Luckily, I met an old man on the city bus, who figured it all out for me. With me in tow, he entered a huge hall with tons of stalls, and illuminated bus company signs covering every inch of all the tall walls. I have never seen anything like it! Wrong place, though. So, backstairs, and a new huge hall. This one barely lit. And a single stall, with a single man. We had arrived. Ever so grateful, for the kindness of this Turkish-only speaking grandpa. I can only pray he did not miss the bus he was there to catch. Lesson learned, set aside plenty of time for this endeavour.
At gate 140, with cash paid ticket, and simit breakfast, in hand, my pulse started racing again – I was approached by the police! That’s never happened before! By chance, I had read I needed to carry my passport, no copy, on me, when out and about, for random checks by the police. Not sure whether or not this was a scam, I reluctantly I did what I was asked, and handed over my passport, half expecting them to run away with it. But I was definitely not about to refuse two men with guns.
At noon I was finally on the bus to Cesme. It departs approx. every hour, from both Izmir and Cesme. Travel time is 1h 45min. You can get tickets online, or at the ticket offices. Tip, if possible, choose a seat on the right side, more to see as you exit Izmir. By the way, it is no free seating. Women and men who are not related, can not sit next to each other, which became an issue, when a man asked if he could sit next to me, when the woman who did, left. It was the front row, with better views. I didn’t care. The bus driver was not happy. They had their discussions in Turkish. In the end, the bus driver checked with me if it was ok, and gave up.
My plan was to get off the bus at the bus station in Cesme, but when I heard the bus driver call out Cesme town centre, I changed my mind. The bus stop, Cesme Adliye, is opposite the courthouse. Got on the bus at the same stop, when going back to Izmir. The ticket office is anonymous and tiny, squeezed in between a bar and a phone booth next to a bench. Hadn’t I seen people go in, I wouldn’t have noticed it. I see there is a small price difference between the two bus stops.
Returning to Izmir, I decided I wanted to make life easier, and follow the hotel receptionist’s travel directions, in reverse. Turned out the bus didn’t stop at the small, peaceful rotunda like building in Fahrettin Altay, where it had picked up people on the way to Cesme. Instead, the bus stopped at a super busy, big roundabout, which I was told was next to the metro stop. Proved to be very close, when I was able to identify the M sign in the chaos. Tapped my credit card at the turnstile, and soon was on the M1 Evka-3 metro line, to Cankaya metro station. A 1.5 hour bus ride, a 15 min metro ride, and a lot less hassle.
Website: cesme.bel.tr/city-guide — I came across this website when researching: likecesme.com
OTEL A is still around!
Surprisingly, I was able to find the hotel we stayed at, all those years ago. The budget hotel has had a make-over, naturally, but the area was just as quiet as last time. I remember a roof terrace, breakfast in a lush backyard, and a friendly hostess. With a few minutes walk from the town hall square, and close to the marina, it could be an option for those looking for something cheap.
Waterfront
Old fort
Marina
Glimpses from the old days
Going there, and back
